VALHALLA BOUND- Part 4 (The last)
The fourth and final leg of the trek to
the hall involved a cruise. The departure point was Bergen and our ports of
call over the twelve day journey would include Eidfjord, Stavanger,
Kristiansand and Oslo (all within Norway) followed by Gothenberg (Sweden),
Alborg (Denmark), Berlin and finally Copenhagen.
Bergen was a revelation. Deceptively
large, the joint was busy, beautiful and, in certain areas, boisterous. Its
links to trade were obvious given the location and it had formed an important
part of the Hanseatic League centuries ago. There were boats of all types in
the harbour when we were there and it was quite a show.
The galleries and museums were tops. We
walked around Bergen Art Museum uninterrupted. I think that at one stage we
were the only ones there. Munch, Picasso, Klee and Christensen were all
represented. Installations were in the city’s parks and Kerry and I, on our
second night, walked in on a classical guitar performance happening in an old
(I think ‘defrocked’) church. Hundreds of locals were present. These people
must do such stuff all the time. Fuck!
The cruise was very good. It allowed us to
cover a fair amount of territory around Scandinavia in a relatively short time.
The Viking Sky was reasonably big. It
carried 900 passengers with an equal number of crew. There were no casinos and
no sprogs on this one and that suited me just fine………. and Kerry too. Food and
drink were top-shelf and there was more than enough to do each evening when the
ship was on the hop.
The only negative thing about this last
phase of the journey to meet Odin lay in the fact that 898 yanks had the same
idea. Don’t get me wrong. My experience with Americans over the decades has been
positive and these punters on the boat were all friendly. But they looked and
sounded the same. All white, all husband/ wife combos, all ex white-collared
toilers and all ‘wide-eyed’……at least in appearance. Affirmative, I am aware of
the hypocrisy of yours truly when making those generalisations. Mealtimes in
the restaurants on board resembled a Howdy Doody revival meeting with cries of
‘Oh my gosh’ and ‘Absolutely!’ echoing around the poop decks and lift wells
incessantly. For reference, the composition of the guests was in complete
contrast to the diversity of the crew. I’ll wager that every continent, city
and neighbourhood McDonald’s from the civilised and chaotic worlds was
represented in the black pants brigade.
You do encounter some weird stuff in
Norway. We were on a bus tour to Voringsfossen waterfall just outside of
Eidfjord. As you’d expect, tunnels are a recurring feature of road travel in
the fjord areas. Our bus enters a very large tunnel after crossing a spectacular
bridge and a couple of hundred metres into the ‘cave’ our road meets another
tunnel and guess what? There’s a bloody roundabout. Here we are in the middle
of a Norwegian mountain and the evergreen Oz speed controller/ manager still
comes into play.
Zig zag au go go in Norway |
On occasions, issues with size seem unimportant. |
Vigeland Park in Oslo had a nudist party happening. Bloody disturbing. |
After the cruise was completed, we
bunkered down in Copenhagen for a few days. Copenhagen is one of THE cities in
my view for a whole lot of different reasons. It was our second visit and on
this occasion we included a run on the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. There’s
something quite ‘positive’ about interpreting a sculpture- in garden setting
mode- with a backdrop of the Kattegat Strait and the outline of Sweden on the
horizon. No happy snap can adequately capture that.
Things
I learnt on our seven week ‘traipse’ (but with some intent)-
1.
There
must have been a gang of medieval pyromaniac hooligans going around Britain and
Europe. Every bloody city and large town we visited seemed to have major fires
as markers in their history.
2.
Walking
tours of alluded to cities and towns are very cool. All the organised ones we
went on were cheap and accessible to most punters with varying degrees of
mobility.
3.
Struggles
can be transnational. We accidentally bumped against a large demo in Belfast
calling for the end of discrimination towards refugees and an acknowledgement
of their rights. Great stuff to witness.
4.
Kerry
is a splendid organiser but I already knew this. Not one bloody problem on the
whole fuckin’ trip. Detail is her business.
5.
‘Uneasiness’
is as good a holiday outcome as ticking off some dumb arse bucket list entry.
Status updates can only take you so far.
To
conclude-
I’m not sure how close your intrepid pair
came to Valhalla. I’m pretty confident that we were within a 7 iron’s carrying
distance. However, the great fear is that in terms of time and space, those
halls may be much closer than we care to imagine.
-Resume normal transmission-
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